Post card from the Philippines: El Nido, Palawan

I've been to quite a number of countries. I've even established a reputation as a "Europhile" for being an avid visitor of the continent. Sure, I've made some rounds of my own country before I've embarked overseas, but those travels were limited to the most accessible provinces from Manila -- that is, Northern Luzon (Ilocos), a couple of business trips to Boracay, and so many coverages in Cebu and other nearby cities where there's little chance to really look around. Sadly, I have to admit, I am a stranger in my own country.

Two years ago, I've decided to give Europe a break and decided to check out South Korea. Then Japan. Then I willingly let my friends drag me to El Nido in Palawan when air fares were offered at a bargain.

Palawan was recognized by CNN and Conde Nast, among many other institutions, as the destination to check out for 2014. And it was not without reason.

I really have mixed expectations when I decided to push through with this trip: quite excited because for once, I'm not a solo traveler as I'm beach bumming with friends; for another, I've heard so many raving reviews about the province. But having seen Boracay beforehand -- the most overrated tourist attraction in the Philippines -- I kept my expectations at bay.

But as soon as we got off from the six-hour van ride from Puerto Prinsesa airport, my jaw dropped at the sight of limestone cliffs and turquoise waters from the beachfront resorts at El Nido town proper. And there was more on the following day, when my friends and I plus a Japanese tourist that we met along the way went on a day-long boat ride that took us to six islands close by. I was in awe. I couldn't believe I've skipped this beauty for more expensive travels outside of my country.

White sand beaches, clear waters, beautiful marine life, delicious sea food, breath-taking views, and more. I don't know what else to say about the beauty that is El Nido.


Photo above shows a view of the beach from an unnamed island in El Nido, Palawan, Philippines.

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Post card from the Philippines: Paoay church

The Philippines is blessed with beautiful beaches, majestic mountains, and the scenic volcanoes. It might be a challenge to decide where to go and what to do in this country made up of 7,107 islands. But if and ever you are to visit this Southeast Asian nation, don't miss the baroque churches. One of my highly recommended sites: Paoay Church in Ilocos Norte.

Paoay Church at dusk. This photo was taken using film.

Practically every town has its own lumang simbahan (old church) constructed during the Spanish occupation, including my own home town of Lipa, whose well-preserved frescoes are a sight to behold during masses

But when I chanced on a personal trip to Ilocos Norte and Ilocos Sur (and a media tour exactly a month thereafter where I was fortunate enough to watch Filipina piano virtuoso Cecile Licad play inside the church), I just realized that there's more beyond my Southern Luzon hometown.

What makes Paoay church so fascinating is how it stands out in the middle of this hot, desert-like province.

The walls are made of coral stone and bricks, and some experts said it was constructed using egg whites. I don't know how possible is that but this manner of construction was said to have been practiced in other parts of the country, hence the abundance of pastries using egg yolks in certain provinces.

What makes this church distinct (as well as the other Baroque churches in Northern Philippines) from those in Spain is the presence of large buttresses to make the structure earthquake-proof.

The bell tower on the side, which stands separated from the church, makes the church even more picturesque (sorry I can't find my nice photos of the church with the bell tower on it, teehee).

What's saddening about this structure, though, is the absence of vaulted ceilings (and of course the lack of beautiful frescoes as with other Agustinian churches in the country). I was told that sometime in 2004 or 2005, the bishop or the parish priest has ordered the destruction of the vaulted ceiling -- with much opposition from the parishoners -- as bat poop and pee destroy it, anyway.

As far as I remember, there was a promise of having it restored. But when my mom went there a couple of months ago, the ceiling is still made up of GI sheets that make it look like it's dilapidated.

But even without the vaulted ceiling, Paoay Church is still a must-see.

Tip sheet:
1. Aside from Paoay Church, other places of interest in this town are the Malacañang of the North (the presidential palace that could be an equivalent to the summer palaces or second or third residences of  royals in Europe) and the Paoay Sand Dunes.
2. It is possible to do all these on a daytrip, coming from Laoag, Ilocos Norte or from Vigan, Ilocos Sur.

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Cherry blossoms in Kyoto, Japan

Word has it that the Japanese government will soon remove visa requirements for some Asian countries, the Philippines among them, and perhaps Indonesia and Vietnam will be included.

That will be sometime in June 2014.

But for the shoestring traveler who can only afford a one-time-big-time trip to the Land of the Rising Sun, there's no need to rush booking the cheapest fares and heading straight on to Japan. I highly suggest that you make your trip to Japan sometime during Spring -- mid-March to mid-April, to be precise -- so that you can catch the cherry blossoms at their peak.

I really can't imagine just yet how Japan is without the cherry blossoms. Sure, it would be fun to enjoy the cosmopolitan Tokyo, try out the rides in Tokyo Disneyland or the Universal Studios in Osaka, or go check out Mount Fuji. It must also be quite an adventure during the colder months when northern Japan becomes a winter wonderland.

But for me, cherry blossoms accentuating Buddhist temples and Shinto shrines, as well as rows upon rows of flowering trees that look like cotton from afar, are a sight to behold. The chilly air is a bonus for someone coming from humid weather all-year round.

I'm not really sure if Kyoto is the best place in Japan to celebrate the beauty of cherry blossoms. When I did my research, it just appeared that Kyoto is so blessed with lots of cherry trees that beautifully blossom come spring time, and luckily, it is close to Osaka where the cheapest flights to Japan are coming from Manila.

There are particular places around Kyoto that are said to be the best spots to go cherry blossom-viewing. I wasn't able to follow every place mentioned in every guidebook that I've read. But I guess I've encountered the not-so popular yet beautiful spots in Kyoto where cherry blossom-viewing can also be enjoyed.

1. The Philosopher's Path
The Philosopher's Path (or Path of Philosophy, depends on how maps are translated) is listed as one of the more favored spots in Kyoto for viewing cherry blossoms. Various sources indicate that the path, which is about 1.5 kilometers long, would take 30 minutes to walk on. Quite a long walk for the Kyoto University philosopher who wandered on this path, isn't it? The entire stretch of the path that runs through a canal is lined with hundreds of cherry trees. Just imagine how surreal it is when the wind blows and the petals fly dramatically while you stroll under the canopy of pinkish-white flowers! It took me more than 30 minutes to walk on the Philosopher's Path as I checked the temples along the way such as the Ginkakuji Temple or the so-called the Silver Pavilion, Honen-in Temple, as well as the cute souvenir shops and quaint eating places along the way.

Suggested tour of the area should follow this order, although I avoided the temples that charge entrance fees as I was on a tight budget: Hakusa-sonso Garden, Ginkakuji Temple, Philosopher's Path, Kumano Nyakuoji Shrine, Eikan-do Temple, Nomura Museum, Nanzenji Temple, and Konchi-in Temple.

How to get there: Take bus no. 5 (A1), 17 (A2) or 100 (D1) at the Kyoto station and get off at Ginkakuji Station. Some of these buses also pass by Gion.

One of the less flattering parts of the Philosopher's Path. Sorry, I didn't do justice!

2. The Old Rail Tracks by Nanzenji Temple
On your way out from the Philosopher's Path going to the subway station, you won't miss the old rail tracks lined with hundreds of cherry trees! When I reached this point, I couldn't say anything but, "wow, wow, wow!" It's so beautiful despite the horde of tourists (and couples that are about to get married) who want to have their pictures taken here.

Rail tracks no longer in use outside Nanzenji Temple.

3. Arashiyama
Tourists flock to Arashiyama because of the bamboo forest, which bode well for selfie addicts and shutter-happy travelers. But the place, being home to a couple of UNESCO World Heritage Sites, is also a good place to go cherry blossom-viewing.

Tenryu-Ji Temple at Arashiyama, Kyoto.

Boats docked at Katsura River in Arashiyama. Cherry trees are aplenty, which must have looked prettier during the full bloom of the blossoms.

4.Shirakawa area in Gion
Touted as the center of geisha culture, Gion prides itself for the traditional Japanese structures that serve as ochaya (teahouse) and okiya (boarding house for geishas), the Gion shrine, and, more appropriately, the beautiful cherry trees at the Shirakawa area. Take note that while the cherry blossoms are a sight to behold in the morning, these seem to glow at night especially when lit.

Cherry blossoms at night in Gion.

So many cherry blossoms at the Gion shrine!

5. Bank of Kamo River at Kawaramachi-dori

I was wondering why the bank of the Kamo River isn't considered a prime spot for cherry blossom-viewing or hanami. My first view of Kyoto was on my way out of Kawaramachi station, and there was a long avenue lined with cherry trees. Even the doorstep of the hostel where I was billeted, which is parallel to Kawaramachi-dori at the Miyagawa Suji, is greeted with cherry blossoms!

My folding bike, an Enda Leo, by the banks of Kamo River.

Another photo of my folding bike, this time at Miyagawa-suji.

6. That street by the Takase-gawa River
Just across the Kamo-gawa River from Miyagawa-suji and Gion is a narrow body of water called Takase-gawa River. Cherry blossoms right by the river, with traditional Japanese buildings and houses around, make for a good place for photo ops.

Another photo of my bike, by the Takase-gawa River.

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Shoestring budget to Paris

I guess the mere mention of “Europe” will never fail to conjure an image of the Eiffel Tower. The French monument – the most visited in the world until Notre Dame de Paris overtook the lead sometime in 2012 – has become too iconic that it almost represents what the entire continent is all about.
 
Indeed, for this tower, much more for the city's old worldly beauty, food, fashion, art and everything in between, a stop in Paris is a must for every trip to Europe.

A typical view of Paris (sans the Eiffel Tower) on a beautiful Spring morning.

But being the must-see and touristy that the French capital has become, a visit surely comes at a price. Even if one is not intent on buying a Louis Vuitton bag or a Cartier watch (where it is relatively cheaper) it is certain that every traveler is bound to spend quite a hefty amount.

And this leads us to a very sensitive yet important question: how much does one spend on a trip to Paris?

A recent article on the Internet has caused quite a stir on the world wide web among Filipino Europhiles (including myself) for pegging the amount to a mere P55,600 ($1,236) for an all-inclusive Parisian getaway for four days and three nights.

I’m not really a frequent visitor of Paris but after three backpacking trips to this city, I have doubts if one is to survive for four days with this amount.

I am not to dispute the price tag of every item that the writer mentioned in the article. I’ll just try to come up with a realistic budget for a less frills yet satisfying trip to Paris.

Plane Fare - $900-$1,400 or P40,500-P63,000 (return trip)

Bulk of the expense if one is to mount a trip to Paris coming from Manila is the plane fare. Fares can be as low as $900 (P40,500) on promos, and about $1,400 (P63,000) on normal days. Fares are normally  low during the cold months (November up to early March), but here’s the thing for tropical islanders (yes, I mean you, fellow Pinoys!): Paris is not at its most beautiful during the dead of winter when the sun is not out. I guarantee, the cloudy if not rainy weather can be depressing! If you’ve been wanting to experience snow, then by all means aim for that white Christmas winter getaway. But based from experience, I can say that the Sacre Coeur and the Eiffel Tower are at their best when the sun is shining. When looking for the cheapest plane fares, compare the fares as listed on the websites of every airline that you know (Qatar Airways, Thai Airways, Etihad, Emirates, Cathay Pacific, Singapore Airlines, AirAsia, etc.). Don’t forget your ever reliable travel agent as they may have better deals for you.

The Sacre Coeur will not look this pretty if not for the sunlight.

Visa Fee at the French Embassy -- €60 or P3,600

This fee excludes any other expense that might be incurred in getting an authenticated birth certificate, photos for the visa, and securing other documents.

Travel Insurance - €16 or P960 for 5 days

Travel insurance is a must when securing a Schengen visa. The amount stated is the cheapest that I’ve found so far. If you want to know where to get insurance policy for cheaps, send me a private message.

Accommodations - €35 or about P2,300/night

If you are really on a shoestring budget, a hostel is your best bet (next to your friend’s or relative’s apartment or a kindred soul traveler’s couch, which is, of course, free).  The price stated is that of a dorm room of a hostel up in Montmartre, which is about 14 Metro stations away from the Latin Quarter or Republique, where the center of the universe is when you are in Paris. Make it a room for your lonesome and move it nearer to the center – say, somewhere near Gare du Nord or Republique (or if you have more moolah to spare, make it a stone’s throw away from the Eiffel Tower), then the price goes higher. Leave no stone unturned and look at the deals in Agoda, Hostelworld, AirBnB, Bookings.com, among many other websites.

Food – €80-100 or P4,800-6,000 for a 4-day, three-night stay

A P1,000 or less than €20 budget for food is an insult to a place known for having one of the well-loved cuisines in the world. Escargot (snails), frites (fries), foie gras (goose liver pate), a wide selection of French pastries (macarons and éclairs!) and a bottle of French wine (from €2-6 or P120-P360 per bottle in grocery stores) will not make it in this kind of budget! My benchmark when it comes to allocating budget for meals in Europe are the prices of a McDonald’s meal. A meal which consists of a burger, drink, and salad or fries (or potato wedges) would be about €7.50 or P450. The cheapest plat du jour (menu for the day) in restaurants and quaint eating places around Montmartre or Latin Quarter starts at €10 or about P600, which already includes salad or a generous serving of foie gras, pasta or grilled chicken with fries, and sorbet or apple pie for dessert. A large slab of steak served with fries and sauce that restaurant L’Entrecote has been famous for is €25. Since breakfast at the hostel is free, my suggestion is to allocate €10 (P600) each for lunch and dinner and reserve a budget for L’Entrecote and for sampling French pastries (macarons de Paris at Laduree or Pierre Herme are a must!). If you're really on a tight budget, a trip to the grocery for a cook-your-own-meal should give you a 4-euro meal.

A generous serving of foie gras, or goose liver pate.

 

Signage indicating what's cooking (and how much) outside one of the eating places around Montmartre.

Transportation - €50-60 or about P3,000-P3,600

Unlimited rides at Paris’ Metro for three days cost about €30 or P1,755. It can be much more expensive if you’ll get a pass that will give you access to the suburbs including Versailles. But I think the out-of-town destination that is worth visiting is La Vallee for the outlet store of signature products as well as Versailles for its palace. I suggest you just buy an unlimited ticket only for Paris city center and buy separate tickets if you are intent on going out of town. Don’t forget that you also have to take the bus going to and from the airport, which costs €10 (P600) per person per trip (the Roissy bus from Charles de Gaule and Opera). 

A Metro station.

Museums - €12-16 or P720-960 for three museums

If you are spending just four days and three nights in Paris, I don’t really suggest buying an unlimited museum pass which costs €56 or P3,360. Even if you are an art lover, you wouldn’t want to spend your entire time in Paris just staring at every painting, photograph or sculpture in the museums! Even if you are intent on seeing EVERY ARTWORK housed in the Louvre, the collections are so extensive that a 30-second stare at each artwork would take three months to finish! If you’re really itching on seeing Mona Lisa and Venus de Milo, then go to the Louvre (€12 or P720 for the permanent collection). If you want to see the other museums, do your research and determine which ones you want to visit. I’ve been to the Louvre already and I want to check out the works at Centre de Pompidou (€10 or P600) and Musee L’Orangerie and Musee d’Orsay (€16 or P960 for the two museums). Please note that there are times when admissions to the museums are FREE, which is normally every first Sunday of the month.

At the courtyard of the Louvre.

Inside the Louvre. Taken during my first trip to Paris sometime in January 2009.

Souvenirs - €20 or about P1,200

Souvenirs sold at Montmartre are relatively cheaper than in other parts of Paris. A small Eiffel Tower keychain could be about €1 (P60), while shirts or coasters cost about €10 (P600). If you’re not really bent on buying that much, then this budget should be enough. Hint: the small Eiffel Tower keychains are sold for €1 for five pieces from the African guys walking around Place du Trocadero or Ecole Militaire (read: under the Eiffel Tower itself!).

Guided tours – €5-10 or P300-600

FREE guided tours are very common across Europe, and Paris isn’t an exception. Take for example Sandeman’s guided tour that showed me around Paris and Montmartre. It’s practically free but tipping is encouraged. I remember what Amelia, a Mexican national studying in Paris and working part-time as a tour guide, said before we commenced our walking tour: “If you’re not satisfied, I accept a kick in the butt!” But even if you’re traveling on a shoestring, you don’t want to do that. Do you really need a guided tour around Paris? Yes. Why? Click HERE.

So for our grand total:

P61,980 up to P86,820 

or $1,511 up to $1,930.

Just a piece of advice: always see to it that you have extra cash or have your credit card ready for any emergencies (sudden decision to buy a Long Champ or LV is not counted! Wehehe).

And a question before you embark on your trip to Paris: will you really spend that much money for plane fare for only four days in Europe? Another hint: there are so many places in Europe that are (arguably) prettier than Paris!

Note:
Conversions are based on €1=P60 and $1=45.

For more about planning your trips, read Planning the Road Ahead or click HERE.
For more about the FREE (tip-based, that is) walking tours of Paris, check out my entry titled, Paris on Foot or click HERE.
There are also FREE walking tours of Montmartre, touted as The Real Paris. You may also read up about that HERE.

 

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Bringing a bike on a plane trip

Should we -- or can we -- really bring our bikes when we go on a foreign trip via plane?

I thought it was plain madness that would bring unnecessary hassles when my friend insisted that we bring our folding bikes on our trip to Seoul.

As a frequent traveler, I know that I’m bound to try my luck (again!) on getting away with exceeding on my baggage space on my flight back home as I figure out how to fit my accumulated nick-knacks in a standard 20-kilo baggage allowance. What more with a 14-kilo bicycle?

And knowing South Korea as a progressive country especially when it comes to the use of bikes as alternative mode of transportation, I was pretty sure renting a bike would be a cinch -- and a better option at that.

But my friend stood her ground: “whether you’re bringing your bike or not, I’ll bring mine.”

She won. I succumbed to peer pressure.

So if your friends are gonna do the same to you or if you’re simply curious if it’s indeed possible to bring a bike in a plane (YES IT IS POSSIBLE!), here’s what I did:

1. Before packing my bags, I made sure that I’m not paying for excess baggage by calling up my airline to inquire about buying additional baggage space. Frequent travelers can surely relate to that horrendous sight of that digital weighing scale indicating that your baggage has exceeded a kilo, and next, the rip-off rates for excess baggage that can go from P200 to P600 per kilo (about $5 to $14), and thousands of pesos elsewhere (say, in Italy, where RyanAir charged me 40 euros for excess baggage!). The per kilo rate is much more expensive compared to buying additional luggage space beforehand. Additional five kilos of baggage allowance can cost about P1,000. If you fail to buy additional baggage allowance while booking your ticket, this can be arranged by calling your airline at least four hours before your flight. Just prepare your credit card for faster transaction.

Some airlines say sports equipment are charged differently. But since my bike is foldable and not used for competition, it’s not really necessary to declare it as a sports equipment where airlines charge higher rates. When the ground attendants ask you what’s inside that oversize bag, be honest and tell them that it’s a folding bike.

Just so you have an idea, that's how big my folding bike is when put inside a bike bag. The stroller was destroyed upon arrival in Seoul. Photo by Sharon Bancoro.

2. Pack your bike in a proper bike bag. I borrowed a bike bag from a fellow biker, where my Enda Leo folding bike fit perfectly. In order to reduce scratches on your bike during the course of the plane ride, buy some bubble wrap from the hardware store (about P30 or less than $1 per meter in Manila). If you have extra budget, buy some foam so that your bike won’t rip the bag. Ask the check in guys to put “fragile” mark on your bike bag. Well, I don’t really think the baggage handlers take the fragile mark seriously, but hey, my bike came out fine except that I lost one of the wheels of my stroller.

That's my bike with the bubble wrap and the bike bag ready for check in!

3. Don’t forget to bring your helmet and other gears like air pump, lights and blinkers, and some ropes to tie your stuff with if you have a bike rack, and of course a chain with a lock so you can leave your bike in peace while you’re checking out the tourist attractions.

In full battle gear: biking in Bukcheon in Seoul with my helmet and a backpack-full of gears! Photo by Sharon Bancoro.

4. Pack light! Make sure the luggage that contains your clothes and other personal effects is light enough as it can be difficult going out of the airport, taking the bus or train to your hotel while dragging a heavy luggage and a big bike bag.

My friend's luggage including the bike inside the Brompton bag. If you just have this and a small knapsack, you'll be fine. Photo by Sharon Bancoro.

Was bringing my own bike worth the excess baggage fee and the hassle of having to lug an oversize bag? Hell yeah, and I'm gonna do it again for my next trip!

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